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Books : Food & Drink : Fish & Seafood
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Hitherto, the contents of Rick Stein's Seafood have been accessible only to students of the Padstow Seafood School, as course notes in a loose-leaf binder. Now the teachings of this remarkable establishment are made available to a wider public, in amply illustrated form at once lucid and sumptuous. This is both a technical manual and an extraordinarily comprehensive collection of recipes; and the tone throughout is correspondingly sober and professional. The first hundred pages cover technique--not just cooking seafood, but buying and preparing it, too--in great thoroughness, from scaling and gutting fish, skinning eels (requiring a butcher's hook and a pair of pliers, if you can face it), through deep-frying, poaching, steaming, grilling, to opening oysters and tenderising octopus (not, as you might suppose, by bashing it repeatedly against a rock, but in the oven).The recipes group fish not just by species, but by shape: large fleshy fish, flat fish, small round fish, crustaceans and so on--a sensible approach, since within these categories the fish are to an extent interchangeable. Austerely, the recipes are neither prefaced with an introductory blurb nor sourced, but they are of the most distinguished provenance. Salmon en Croute with Currants and Ginger, for example is a famous George Perry-Smith recipe; the neighbouring Escalopes of Salmon with Sorrel Sauce derives from the Triosgros brother; while the interestingly strange Pernod and olive oil dressing with which Stein anoints grilled Dublin Bay prawns comes from Alexandre Dumas by way of Elizabeth David (it also includes mustard, soy sauce and tarragon). This is not to accuse Stein of plagiarism: he has simply collected the very finest seafood recipes and filtered everything through his characteristic simplicity and emphasis on freshness, quality and flavour. The result is a book of quite exceptional quality and usefulness. One hesitates to use the word bible, but if seafood can have one, this may be it. --Robin Davidson
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To make the history of a fish interesting, invigorating and moving is an almost impossible feat that Mark Kurlansky accomplishes fantastically well in this compact, learned, beautifully written gem of a book. Cod traces humankind's involvement with what was once one of the world's most plentiful foodstuffs. The Basque people, who Kurlansky suggests found America before Columbus, could only fish and forage (for whale meat) as far as they did because of the huge schools of cod they found, caught and salted as they went. Centuries before this Vikings had travelled from Norway across to Canada--the exact range of the Atlantic cod. Interspersed with old and forgotten recipes Cod becomes a fitting requiem to a fish no-one believed would ever become scarce nor become such a telling metaphor for our careless treatment of the sea, its bounty and our wider environment. --Mark Thwaite
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There may be many pretenders to her throne, but as The Delia Collection: Fish comprehensively demonstrates, Delia Smith can still see off her rivals, even those with trendy haircuts and manic TV personalities. She is still seen by most who tackle the Art of Cookery as the most sane and balanced voice in the field and there are few houses which don't boast one of her invaluable books.This volume may not replace earlier Delia books in a similar vein, but it provides as useful and basic a resource as any cookery enthusiast is likely to need. The large, attractive format is always at the service of the individual recipes, which are drawn from 33 years of recipe writing and television. While Delia followers will find much here to stimulate, this is an excellent entry-level book for those new to the doyenne of TV chefs. Fish confines itself to the main categories: white fish; salmon; trout; oily and other fish; and smoked fish. The recipes varying from the concise, such as a very straightforward Fried Plaice Fillets, to the more advanced (a mouth-watering preparation for Fillets of Sole Véronique). A particularly attractive recipe is that for Smoked Salmon Tart, which is an object lesson in concision and practicality--if the pastry isn't--we're told--rising in the centre, we should prick it a couple of times and press it back down with our hands.
Instructions are as direct and uncomplicated as one would expect (this, of course, is Delia's trademark) and up-to-date conversion tables are included, along with an impressive section on fish extras, making this an invaluable and user-friendly guide. --Barry Forshaw
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Rick Stein, British TV seafood cooking instructor and seafood restaurant owner, wasn't able to get every recipe he loves into his first book, Taste of the Sea. So he wrote Fruits of the Sea.Where Taste of the Sea was a kind of introduction to seafood cooking for those a bit hesitant about trying different kinds of fish, Fruits of the Sea is more like Stein's launching pad. He assumes he is preaching to an enthusiastic choir. Much of his information is right to the point, and his style of instruction is more refined. All the techniques for prepping different kinds of fish are described in clear language as well as illustrated in detailed photos. Included, too, is a discussion of many of the unusual ingredients Stein pulls into his recipes for that extra dash of brilliant flavour--preserved lemons, for example, or kaffir lime leaves. It comes as little surprise, then, that Stein opens with recipes like Basque Squid Stew, Moroccan Fish Tagine, Seafood in a Crab and Ginger Broth, and Mussels with Turmeric, Cumin, and Coriander.
He breaks his recipes into soup, stews, and clear broths; light lunch dishes; hot and spicy fish; deep-fried fish; summer fish and salads; fish from colder climates; elegant fish dishes; quick and simple fish; hand-held and party food; and food to finish with. As in the first book, you'll also find basic stocks and sauces and a list of alternative fish for the American and Australian markets. The user-friendly Fruits of the Sea will launch anyone, even a reader who may have been a bit reluctant to take the plunge, on a discovery of seafood. --Schuyler Ingle
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Hitherto, the contents of Rick Stein's Seafood have been accessible only to students of the Padstow Seafood School, as course notes in a loose-leaf binder. Now the teachings of this remarkable establishment are made available to a wider public, in amply illustrated form at once lucid and sumptuous. This is both a technical manual and an extraordinarily comprehensive collection of recipes; and the tone throughout is correspondingly sober and professional. The first hundred pages cover technique--not just cooking seafood, but buying and preparing it, too--in great thoroughness, from scaling and gutting fish, skinning eels (requiring a butcher's hook and a pair of pliers, if you can face it), through deep-frying, poaching, steaming, grilling, to opening oysters and tenderising octopus (not, as you might suppose, by bashing it repeatedly against a rock, but in the oven).The recipes group fish not just by species, but by shape: large fleshy fish, flat fish, small round fish, crustaceans and so on--a sensible approach, since within these categories the fish are to an extent interchangeable. Austerely, the recipes are neither prefaced with an introductory blurb nor sourced, but they are of the most distinguished provenance. Salmon en Croute with Currants and Ginger, for example is a famous George Perry-Smith recipe; the neighbouring Escalopes of Salmon with Sorrel Sauce derives from the Triosgros brother; while the interestingly strange Pernod and olive oil dressing with which Stein anoints grilled Dublin Bay prawns comes from Alexandre Dumas by way of Elizabeth David (it also includes mustard, soy sauce and tarragon). This is not to accuse Stein of plagiarism: he has simply collected the very finest seafood recipes and filtered everything through his characteristic simplicity and emphasis on freshness, quality and flavour. The result is a book of quite exceptional quality and usefulness. One hesitates to use the word bible, but if seafood can have one, this may be it. --Robin Davidson
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The encyclopaedic Rick Stein's Complete Seafood is particularly welcome. Not only does the chef's book offer 150 attractive recipes and step-by-step instructional colour photographs, it classifies the world's seafood in a thorough, approachable and up-to-date way. This is no small accomplishment. Fish classification is notoriously vexed; local usage can result in multiple names for the same fish--one person's dolphinfish, for example, is another's mahi mahi--or dozens of different fish with the same name. Grouping seafood by anatomical distinctions, such as billfish (which includes swordfish and marlin), as well as by family, helps create a clearer picture; and colour illustrations, plus a valuable chart that delineates common, Latin and family names, as well as home-region, further elucidates what's what and where.In addition, the oversize book's technical illustration, which delves far beyond the usual guide to filleting, skinning and the like, is an informative trove. Preparing flatfish for broiling and for deep frying are two examples of this thoroughness that also covers baking whole fish in foil; butterflying raw shrimp for broiling; and preparing raw, smoked and cured fish, among other key methods. The central section of the book is devoted to Stein's recipes, which range from the simple and direct--Baked Sea Bass with Roasted Red Pepper, Tomatoes and Anchovies, and Sautéed Soft-Shell Crabs with Garlic Butter, for example--to the more dressy--such as Fillet of Bass with Vanilla Butter Vinaigrette and Mussels en Croustade with Leeks and White Wine. Offered with suggestions for using alternative fish types, the formulas also help readers make sense of seafood's bounty--and to find recipes based on market availability. This book, designed for all cooks with more than a passing interest in seafood, is among today's best kitchen resources. --Arthur Boehm, Amazon.com