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Books : Food & Drink : Food Writers : Albert & Michel Roux
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The Marathon Chef is, on the face of it, rather a strange project. Perhaps this is because one doesn't immediately associate chefs with marathons--although no doubt everybody could come up with a name or two they'd like to see tottering across the finishing line in a charity chicken suit. However, Michel Roux, one-time dauphin and now sun king of the esteemed restaurant Le Gavroche in London, turns out to be a proselytising marathon runner with something of a mission. Since he took up running ten years ago (to counter the weight gained after giving up smoking), Roux has been experimenting with foods to suit his training needs; and he clearly feels there's a gap to be filled in the market for healthy, delicious food suited to the needs of exercisers who don't want to be restricted to a diet of rabbit food and plain pasta. On the evidence of this book, he may well be right.The good news is that red meat, wine, cheese and butter stay on the menu, although, as Roux says, based on his own experience the desire for these technically unhealthy foods diminishes with exercise. For the most part, the food is simple, lively and uncomplicated: among the main courses, Minced Lamb with Preserved Lemon (served with couscous), Poached Chicken Supreme with Pearl Barley Broth, Grilled Mackerel with Green Asparagus and Anise-Flavoured Cauliflower Cream are all good examples of Roux's light touch and eclectic approach. There is a good selection of breakfast dishes and a fine collection of mostly fruit-based desserts. The interspersed pieces of advice for runners are in no way off-putting for the unathletic. --Robin Davidson
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The Marathon Chef is, on the face of it, rather a strange project. Perhaps this is because one doesn't immediately associate chefs with marathons--although no doubt everybody could come up with a name or two they'd like to see tottering across the finishing line in a charity chicken suit. However, Michel Roux, one-time dauphin and now sun king of the esteemed restaurant Le Gavroche in London, turns out to be a proselytising marathon runner with something of a mission. Since he took up running ten years ago (to counter the weight gained after giving up smoking), Roux has been experimenting with foods to suit his training needs; and he clearly feels there's a gap to be filled in the market for healthy, delicious food suited to the needs of exercisers who don't want to be restricted to a diet of rabbit food and plain pasta. On the evidence of this book, he may well be right.The good news is that red meat, wine, cheese and butter stay on the menu, although, as Roux says, based on his own experience the desire for these technically unhealthy foods diminishes with exercise. For the most part, the food is simple, lively and uncomplicated: among the main courses, Minced Lamb with Preserved Lemon (served with couscous), Poached Chicken Supreme with Pearl Barley Broth, Grilled Mackerel with Green Asparagus and Anise-Flavoured Cauliflower Cream are all good examples of Roux's light touch and eclectic approach. There is a good selection of breakfast dishes and a fine collection of mostly fruit-based desserts. The interspersed pieces of advice for runners are in no way off-putting for the unathletic. --Robin Davidson
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