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Books : Food & Drink : Food Writers : Rick Stein
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Hitherto, the contents of Rick Stein's Seafood have been accessible only to students of the Padstow Seafood School, as course notes in a loose-leaf binder. Now the teachings of this remarkable establishment are made available to a wider public, in amply illustrated form at once lucid and sumptuous. This is both a technical manual and an extraordinarily comprehensive collection of recipes; and the tone throughout is correspondingly sober and professional. The first hundred pages cover technique--not just cooking seafood, but buying and preparing it, too--in great thoroughness, from scaling and gutting fish, skinning eels (requiring a butcher's hook and a pair of pliers, if you can face it), through deep-frying, poaching, steaming, grilling, to opening oysters and tenderising octopus (not, as you might suppose, by bashing it repeatedly against a rock, but in the oven).The recipes group fish not just by species, but by shape: large fleshy fish, flat fish, small round fish, crustaceans and so on--a sensible approach, since within these categories the fish are to an extent interchangeable. Austerely, the recipes are neither prefaced with an introductory blurb nor sourced, but they are of the most distinguished provenance. Salmon en Croute with Currants and Ginger, for example is a famous George Perry-Smith recipe; the neighbouring Escalopes of Salmon with Sorrel Sauce derives from the Triosgros brother; while the interestingly strange Pernod and olive oil dressing with which Stein anoints grilled Dublin Bay prawns comes from Alexandre Dumas by way of Elizabeth David (it also includes mustard, soy sauce and tarragon). This is not to accuse Stein of plagiarism: he has simply collected the very finest seafood recipes and filtered everything through his characteristic simplicity and emphasis on freshness, quality and flavour. The result is a book of quite exceptional quality and usefulness. One hesitates to use the word bible, but if seafood can have one, this may be it. --Robin Davidson
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What a likeable cook and writer Rick Stein is, apparently quite without side or any need to posture. Tirelessly generous, Food Heroes salutes those people who work hard, in the face of market pressures and often widespread indifference, to make available the very best British produce. Cheese, eggs, poultry, meat and game, fruit and seafood--the list of foodstuffs over which many of us have relinquished any claim to demand quality is a long and depressing one. Top marks, then to Stein for travelling the country and bringing a bit of publicity to those who labour in the vineyard. He is remarkably good at making clear just why quality matters so much, not only in terms of flavour, but on humanitarian grounds too. (He pointedly muses on how very much more cruelty might be prevented if single-issue anti-hunt campaigners broadened their concerns to include intensive farming.)Some of the names here are more familiar than others: many people have eaten Mrs Kirkham's remarkable Lancashire cheese (though some apparently think she is no more real then Mr Kipling), or enjoyed the products of Loch Fyne and the Duchy of Cornwall; they are merely the most prominent among more than 300 producers and suppliers listed in the extraordinarily thorough and useful directory. One wishes them all well and hopes that this book (and the TV series) will have an appreciable effect on the nation's food buying. At least no-one can say that Rick Stein hasn't tried. The recipes he produces to demonstrate how to make the best of this fine produce are, as always, simple and impeccable, mingling a nice appreciation for tradition with a clear-sighted modern practicality. Roast Grouse with Bread Sauce and all the Trimmings rubs shoulders, as it were, with Medallions of Venison with Red Wine and Morello Cherries accompanied by Roasted Hazelnut Spätzle (a remarkable dish), while simple, old-fashioned puddings like Coeur à la Crème and Summer Pudding sit happily alongside chef's creations such as Fresh Raspberry Tart in Coconut and Hazelnut Pastry. The book is a feast and a pleasure, and if used as Rick Stein intends, may make the world a slightly better place. --Robin Davidson
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Hitherto, the contents of Rick Stein's Seafood have been accessible only to students of the Padstow Seafood School, as course notes in a loose-leaf binder. Now the teachings of this remarkable establishment are made available to a wider public, in amply illustrated form at once lucid and sumptuous. This is both a technical manual and an extraordinarily comprehensive collection of recipes; and the tone throughout is correspondingly sober and professional. The first hundred pages cover technique--not just cooking seafood, but buying and preparing it, too--in great thoroughness, from scaling and gutting fish, skinning eels (requiring a butcher's hook and a pair of pliers, if you can face it), through deep-frying, poaching, steaming, grilling, to opening oysters and tenderising octopus (not, as you might suppose, by bashing it repeatedly against a rock, but in the oven).The recipes group fish not just by species, but by shape: large fleshy fish, flat fish, small round fish, crustaceans and so on--a sensible approach, since within these categories the fish are to an extent interchangeable. Austerely, the recipes are neither prefaced with an introductory blurb nor sourced, but they are of the most distinguished provenance. Salmon en Croute with Currants and Ginger, for example is a famous George Perry-Smith recipe; the neighbouring Escalopes of Salmon with Sorrel Sauce derives from the Triosgros brother; while the interestingly strange Pernod and olive oil dressing with which Stein anoints grilled Dublin Bay prawns comes from Alexandre Dumas by way of Elizabeth David (it also includes mustard, soy sauce and tarragon). This is not to accuse Stein of plagiarism: he has simply collected the very finest seafood recipes and filtered everything through his characteristic simplicity and emphasis on freshness, quality and flavour. The result is a book of quite exceptional quality and usefulness. One hesitates to use the word bible, but if seafood can have one, this may be it. --Robin Davidson
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Rick Stein, British TV seafood cooking instructor and seafood restaurant owner, wasn't able to get every recipe he loves into his first book, Taste of the Sea. So he wrote Fruits of the Sea.Where Taste of the Sea was a kind of introduction to seafood cooking for those a bit hesitant about trying different kinds of fish, Fruits of the Sea is more like Stein's launching pad. He assumes he is preaching to an enthusiastic choir. Much of his information is right to the point, and his style of instruction is more refined. All the techniques for prepping different kinds of fish are described in clear language as well as illustrated in detailed photos. Included, too, is a discussion of many of the unusual ingredients Stein pulls into his recipes for that extra dash of brilliant flavour--preserved lemons, for example, or kaffir lime leaves. It comes as little surprise, then, that Stein opens with recipes like Basque Squid Stew, Moroccan Fish Tagine, Seafood in a Crab and Ginger Broth, and Mussels with Turmeric, Cumin, and Coriander.
He breaks his recipes into soup, stews, and clear broths; light lunch dishes; hot and spicy fish; deep-fried fish; summer fish and salads; fish from colder climates; elegant fish dishes; quick and simple fish; hand-held and party food; and food to finish with. As in the first book, you'll also find basic stocks and sauces and a list of alternative fish for the American and Australian markets. The user-friendly Fruits of the Sea will launch anyone, even a reader who may have been a bit reluctant to take the plunge, on a discovery of seafood. --Schuyler Ingle
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What a likeable cook and writer Rick Stein is, apparently quite without side or any need to posture. Tirelessly generous, Food Heroes salutes those people who work hard, in the face of market pressures and often widespread indifference, to make available the very best British produce. Cheese, eggs, poultry, meat and game, fruit and seafood--the list of foodstuffs over which many of us have relinquished any claim to demand quality is a long and depressing one. Top marks, then to Stein for travelling the country and bringing a bit of publicity to those who labour in the vineyard. He is remarkably good at making clear just why quality matters so much, not only in terms of flavour, but on humanitarian grounds too. (He pointedly muses on how very much more cruelty might be prevented if single-issue anti-hunt campaigners broadened their concerns to include intensive farming.)Some of the names here are more familiar than others: many people have eaten Mrs Kirkham's remarkable Lancashire cheese (though some apparently think she is no more real then Mr Kipling), or enjoyed the products of Loch Fyne and the Duchy of Cornwall; they are merely the most prominent among more than 300 producers and suppliers listed in the extraordinarily thorough and useful directory. One wishes them all well and hopes that this book (and the TV series) will have an appreciable effect on the nation's food buying. At least no-one can say that Rick Stein hasn't tried. The recipes he produces to demonstrate how to make the best of this fine produce are, as always, simple and impeccable, mingling a nice appreciation for tradition with a clear-sighted modern practicality. Roast Grouse with Bread Sauce and all the Trimmings rubs shoulders, as it were, with Medallions of Venison with Red Wine and Morello Cherries accompanied by Roasted Hazelnut Spätzle (a remarkable dish), while simple, old-fashioned puddings like Coeur à la Crème and Summer Pudding sit happily alongside chef's creations such as Fresh Raspberry Tart in Coconut and Hazelnut Pastry. The book is a feast and a pleasure, and if used as Rick Stein intends, may make the world a slightly better place. --Robin Davidson
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The encyclopaedic Rick Stein's Complete Seafood is particularly welcome. Not only does the chef's book offer 150 attractive recipes and step-by-step instructional colour photographs, it classifies the world's seafood in a thorough, approachable and up-to-date way. This is no small accomplishment. Fish classification is notoriously vexed; local usage can result in multiple names for the same fish--one person's dolphinfish, for example, is another's mahi mahi--or dozens of different fish with the same name. Grouping seafood by anatomical distinctions, such as billfish (which includes swordfish and marlin), as well as by family, helps create a clearer picture; and colour illustrations, plus a valuable chart that delineates common, Latin and family names, as well as home-region, further elucidates what's what and where.In addition, the oversize book's technical illustration, which delves far beyond the usual guide to filleting, skinning and the like, is an informative trove. Preparing flatfish for broiling and for deep frying are two examples of this thoroughness that also covers baking whole fish in foil; butterflying raw shrimp for broiling; and preparing raw, smoked and cured fish, among other key methods. The central section of the book is devoted to Stein's recipes, which range from the simple and direct--Baked Sea Bass with Roasted Red Pepper, Tomatoes and Anchovies, and Sautéed Soft-Shell Crabs with Garlic Butter, for example--to the more dressy--such as Fillet of Bass with Vanilla Butter Vinaigrette and Mussels en Croustade with Leeks and White Wine. Offered with suggestions for using alternative fish types, the formulas also help readers make sense of seafood's bounty--and to find recipes based on market availability. This book, designed for all cooks with more than a passing interest in seafood, is among today's best kitchen resources. --Arthur Boehm, Amazon.com
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Rick Stein, British TV seafood cooking instructor and seafood restaurant owner, wasn't able to get every recipe he loves into his first book, Taste of the Sea. So he wrote Fruits of the Sea.Where Taste of the Sea was a kind of introduction to seafood cooking for those a bit hesitant about trying different kinds of fish, Fruits of the Sea is more like Stein's launching pad. He assumes he is preaching to an enthusiastic choir. Much of his information is right to the point, and his style of instruction is more refined. All the techniques for prepping different kinds of fish are described in clear language as well as illustrated in detailed photos. Included, too, is a discussion of many of the unusual ingredients Stein pulls into his recipes for that extra dash of brilliant flavour--preserved lemons, for example, or kaffir lime leaves. It comes as little surprise, then, that Stein opens with recipes like Basque Squid Stew, Moroccan Fish Tagine, Seafood in a Crab and Ginger Broth, and Mussels with Turmeric, Cumin, and Coriander.
He breaks his recipes into soup, stews, and clear broths; light lunch dishes; hot and spicy fish; deep-fried fish; summer fish and salads; fish from colder climates; elegant fish dishes; quick and simple fish; hand-held and party food; and food to finish with. As in the first book, you'll also find basic stocks and sauces and a list of alternative fish for the American and Australian markets. The user-friendly Fruits of the Sea will launch anyone, even a reader who may have been a bit reluctant to take the plunge, on a discovery of seafood. --Schuyler Ingle
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What a likeable cook and writer Rick Stein is, apparently quite without side or any need to posture. Tirelessly generous, Food Heroes salutes those people who work hard, in the face of market pressures and often widespread indifference, to make available the very best British produce. Cheese, eggs, poultry, meat and game, fruit and seafood--the list of foodstuffs over which many of us have relinquished any claim to demand quality is a long and depressing one. Top marks, then to Stein for travelling the country and bringing a bit of publicity to those who labour in the vineyard. He is remarkably good at making clear just why quality matters so much, not only in terms of flavour, but on humanitarian grounds too. (He pointedly muses on how very much more cruelty might be prevented if single-issue anti-hunt campaigners broadened their concerns to include intensive farming.)Some of the names here are more familiar than others: many people have eaten Mrs Kirkham's remarkable Lancashire cheese (though some apparently think she is no more real then Mr Kipling), or enjoyed the products of Loch Fyne and the Duchy of Cornwall; they are merely the most prominent among more than 300 producers and suppliers listed in the extraordinarily thorough and useful directory. One wishes them all well and hopes that this book (and the TV series) will have an appreciable effect on the nation's food buying. At least no-one can say that Rick Stein hasn't tried. The recipes he produces to demonstrate how to make the best of this fine produce are, as always, simple and impeccable, mingling a nice appreciation for tradition with a clear-sighted modern practicality. Roast Grouse with Bread Sauce and all the Trimmings rubs shoulders, as it were, with Medallions of Venison with Red Wine and Morello Cherries accompanied by Roasted Hazelnut Spätzle (a remarkable dish), while simple, old-fashioned puddings like Coeur à la Crème and Summer Pudding sit happily alongside chef's creations such as Fresh Raspberry Tart in Coconut and Hazelnut Pastry. The book is a feast and a pleasure, and if used as Rick Stein intends, may make the world a slightly better place. --Robin Davidson
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Exotic spices, traditional fare and flavours from throughout the world can be found in abundance in the latest Rick Stein offering-Seafood Odyssey.From the classic cookery of France to the Far East and Thailand, Rick Stein has undertaken a personal journey to bring back flavours from Europe and more exotic climes. Travelling with his curiosity and the childlike delight in discovering new flavours, he has sampled each country's unique cooking styles, tastes and textures and bound them up in a book to enjoy in all kitchens and, of course, on all dinner tables! Culinary classics like the Charleston Seafood Gumbo, Baked Whole Sea Bass (with roasted red peppers, tomatoes, anchovies and potatoes) and Kedgeree of Arbroath Smokies, are mixed in with more unusual dishes such as Indian Sardine and Potato Curry Puffs, Singapore Chilli Crab and the French Tarte aux Moules (highly recommended).
In addition to providing clear and concise recipes with mouth-watering pictures of the finished dish, there are also delicate watercolours illustrating the groups of different fish and shellfish. Rick Stein's love of the many varieties of fruits de mer shines through as he describes each ingredient and recipe with loving flair and encourages the reader to experiment with seafood in the kitchen. --Rebecca Loades
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Rick Stein confesses that, following the world-wide peregrinations of his Seafood Odyssey, the prospect of a seafood tour of the coasts of the United Kingdom and Eire seemed humdrum. That he was completely wrong is shown triumphantly by the resulting Seafood Lover's Guide, an account of the fish and shellfish harvested around the coast, where to buy it and how to cook it and eat it. This book will be for many readers an eye-opener in the richness and variety of the country's seafood. Starting from his home in the west country, Stein travels the length of a coastline "of matchless beauty", talking to fishermen, suppliers and cooks. He skilfully maintains a very delicate balance between a chef's enthusiasm for the product, as it were, on the one hand, and a proper dismay at the state of the fisheries after decades of thoughtless over-fishing. Yet the overall mood is optimistic, as he meets so many people who care so passionately about the fruits of the sea. Each regional section contains a choice selection of Stein recipes, some local, some modified, some unapologetically foreign, all expertly crafted (of course) and delicious, all designed to show off the superlative quality of the seafood. Representative highlights might include Gurnard Fillets with a Potato, Garlic and Saffron Broth, Split Herrings with a Caper and Fresh Tomato Salsa, Seafood and White Bean Cassoulet with Salt Cod, Garlic and Toulouse Sausage, and the exquisitely simple Halibut Poached in Olive Oil with Cucumber and Dill. Regional listings of seafood restaurants, fish and chip establishments, fishmongers, seafood suppliers and smokers add further value to this very classy production. --Robin Davidson
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Rick Stein confesses that, following the world-wide peregrinations of his Seafood Odyssey, the prospect of a seafood tour of the coasts of the United Kingdom and Eire seemed humdrum. That he was completely wrong is shown triumphantly by the resulting Seafood Lover's Guide, an account of the fish and shellfish harvested around the coast, where to buy it and how to cook it and eat it. This book will be for many readers an eye-opener in the richness and variety of the country's seafood. Starting from his home in the west country, Stein travels the length of a coastline "of matchless beauty", talking to fishermen, suppliers and cooks. He skilfully maintains a very delicate balance between a chef's enthusiasm for the product, as it were, on the one hand, and a proper dismay at the state of the fisheries after decades of thoughtless over-fishing. Yet the overall mood is optimistic, as he meets so many people who care so passionately about the fruits of the sea. Each regional section contains a choice selection of Stein recipes, some local, some modified, some unapologetically foreign, all expertly crafted (of course) and delicious, all designed to show off the superlative quality of the seafood. Representative highlights might include Gurnard Fillets with a Potato, Garlic and Saffron Broth, Split Herrings with a Caper and Fresh Tomato Salsa, Seafood and White Bean Cassoulet with Salt Cod, Garlic and Toulouse Sausage, and the exquisitely simple Halibut Poached in Olive Oil with Cucumber and Dill. Regional listings of seafood restaurants, fish and chip establishments, fishmongers, seafood suppliers and smokers add further value to this very classy production. --Robin Davidson
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Rick Stein, British TV seafood cooking instructor and seafood restaurant owner, wasn't able to get every recipe he loves into his first book, Taste of the Sea. So he wrote Fruits of the Sea.Where Taste of the Sea was a kind of introduction to seafood cooking for those a bit hesitant about trying different kinds of fish, Fruits of the Sea is more like Stein's launching pad. He assumes he is preaching to an enthusiastic choir. Much of his information is right to the point, and his style of instruction is more refined. All the techniques for prepping different kinds of fish are described in clear language as well as illustrated in detailed photos. Included, too, is a discussion of many of the unusual ingredients Stein pulls into his recipes for that extra dash of brilliant flavour--preserved lemons, for example, or kaffir lime leaves. It comes as little surprise, then, that Stein opens with recipes like Basque Squid Stew, Moroccan Fish Tagine, Seafood in a Crab and Ginger Broth, and Mussels with Turmeric, Cumin, and Coriander.
He breaks his recipes into soup, stews, and clear broths; light lunch dishes; hot and spicy fish; deep-fried fish; summer fish and salads; fish from colder climates; elegant fish dishes; quick and simple fish; hand-held and party food; and food to finish with. As in the first book, you'll also find basic stocks and sauces and a list of alternative fish for the American and Australian markets. The user-friendly Fruits of the Sea will launch anyone, even a reader who may have been a bit reluctant to take the plunge, on a discovery of seafood. --Schuyler Ingle