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Books : Food & Drink : Food Writers : Robert Carrier
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New Great Dishes of the World is Robert Carrier's long-delayed sequel to his Classic Great Dishes of the World, which was first published in 1963. In the four decades since, much has changed. Ingredients and techniques once deemed impossibly exotic are at the fingertips of any cook who wants to reach out and take them. So Robert Carrier has again assembled a collection of outstanding recipes from around the world, but now reflecting modern tastes. The new internationalism is manifested most clearly in the section dealing with breakfasts (or rather, Great Breakfasts--Carrier is evidently an indefatigable self-promoter and all the chapters are Great). Thai Crab Cakes, Creole Spiced Sausage Patties, Tunisian Adja with Eggs, Hong Kong Congee all sit happily alongside each other. Starters include Oysters in Champagne with Caramelized Spring Onions, Japanese Seared Beef with Fresh Ginger and the classic Artichoke Hearts with Foie Gras. Soups range from the creations of great chefs such as Paul Bocuse and Gordon Ramsay to Italian Mama's Comfort Soup, while pasta dishes take in Chinese Egg Noodles with Crisp Vegetables and Franco Taruschio's Bigoli with Chicken Liver Sauce. Lunch dishes are mostly seafood or vegetarian. The section on Great Dinners is heady indeed, including contributions from Raymond Blanc (Fillet of Lamb Baked in a Salt Crust with Rosemary), Fredy Girardet (Pan-Seared Fillets of Red Mullet) and the Hotel Crillon ('Hearts' of Pigeon with Chicory). An exhilarating collection, then, from a supremely confident and cosmopolitan cook; and worthy of its famous predecessor. -- Robin Davidson
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New Great Dishes of the World is Robert Carrier's long-delayed sequel to his Classic Great Dishes of the World, which was first published in 1963. In the four decades since, much has changed. Ingredients and techniques once deemed impossibly exotic are at the fingertips of any cook who wants to reach out and take them. So Robert Carrier has again assembled a collection of outstanding recipes from around the world, but now reflecting modern tastes. The new internationalism is manifested most clearly in the section dealing with breakfasts (or rather, Great Breakfasts--Carrier is evidently an indefatigable self-promoter and all the chapters are Great). Thai Crab Cakes, Creole Spiced Sausage Patties, Tunisian Adja with Eggs, Hong Kong Congee all sit happily alongside each other. Starters include Oysters in Champagne with Caramelized Spring Onions, Japanese Seared Beef with Fresh Ginger and the classic Artichoke Hearts with Foie Gras. Soups range from the creations of great chefs such as Paul Bocuse and Gordon Ramsay to Italian Mama's Comfort Soup, while pasta dishes take in Chinese Egg Noodles with Crisp Vegetables and Franco Taruschio's Bigoli with Chicken Liver Sauce. Lunch dishes are mostly seafood or vegetarian. The section on Great Dinners is heady indeed, including contributions from Raymond Blanc (Fillet of Lamb Baked in a Salt Crust with Rosemary), Fredy Girardet (Pan-Seared Fillets of Red Mullet) and the Hotel Crillon ('Hearts' of Pigeon with Chicory). An exhilarating collection, then, from a supremely confident and cosmopolitan cook; and worthy of its famous predecessor. -- Robin Davidson
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Robert Carrier thinks Spanish food is going to be hot and he should know. After many years spent pursuing the ideal Mediterranean food around the shores of that sea in Taste of Morocco and Feasts of Provence, Carrier has turned his attention to Spain, home of the quintessential, original Arab-European fusion cooking. The fantastic energy of the Spanish, their newly-revived optimism and creativity, all suggest to him that Spain's moment is upon us. Great Dishes of Spain is the result. In true Carrier fashion it is a sumptuous production, comprising 150 delicious (and achievable) recipes, decorated with his own atmospheric photographs.Carrier's alluring vision of Spanish food is of an ancient but living tradition, blending influences from the ancient Iberians, the Romans and the Moors with the modernising instincts of contemporary cooks. Thus, immemorial dishes such as the great soup- stew Cocido, a classically pure Paella and the celebrated "Hake with Clams in Green Sauce" (Merluza con Almejas en Salsa Verde) rub shoulders with such highly sophisticated re- interpretations of tradition as "Roast Lamb with Honey, Rosemary, Migas and Foie Gras" (Cordero Asado con Miel, Romero, Migas y Foie Gras) from the Albacar brothers' restaurant in Valencia. Tapas (including the perfect Tortilla), soups Gaspacho, of course),highly imaginative vegetable dishes and a stunning array of desserts complete an enthralling collection. The flavours are vivid, true and gutsy .An inspirational book and a real eye-opener. -- Robin Davidson
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Old wine, new bottle. Classic Great Dishes of the World is a most welcome re-issue of the book with which Robert Carrier established his reputation back in 1963. Some might regret the rather sober (put crudely, cheap) presentation, as this sparsely-illustrated paperback gives little idea of the splendours of the lavish original edition--which retailed "at the unbelievable price of four guineas (approximately £60 at today's prices)", as Robert Carrier proudly relates. Still, the recipes are the thing; and we should be grateful, for this was almost without doubt the book which ensured the familiarity of, say, Gazpacho, Paella, Guacamole, Moules Marinieres, Moussaka, Osso Buco, Boeuf Stroganoff, Fillet of Beef 'en Chemise' (better known as Beef Wellington), Gratin Dauphinois, Crepes Suzette, French Lemon Tart … all those wonderful Sixties dinner-party dishes that right-thinking cooks are re- introducing to their repertoires. Elizabeth David was of course there first in bringing Mediterranean flavours and a sense of style to grey post-war England: she whetted the appetite, but it was Robert Carrier who triumphantly brought detailed, practical recipes for these great dishes to Anglo-Saxon kitchens. The slightly old-fashioned air of luxury about many of the dishes (lobster, souffles, truffled pates) adds to the charm. This is an important book for all sorts of reasons. One could cook one's way through it indefinitely. It belongs in general circulation. --Robin Davidson
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