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Books : Food & Drink : Food Writers : Antonio Carluccio
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Maestro Carluccio hits the spot again with Complete Italian Food. Despite the title, it is not a comprehensive encyclopedia--how could it be, at 320 pages?--but a personal sampling of Italian food as it is still produced by traditional methods using traditional skills and materials: "real Italian food, where it comes from and why it tastes the way it does". Rather than work his way through the 20 regions of Italy, Carluccio has chosen to start with the foodstuffs themselves. A chapter is devoted to each category: Fish & Shellfish; Eggs, Poultry & Game; Fresh & Cured Meats and so on. Each contains an account of the place these foods hold in Italian culture and an A-Z of the most common individual ingredients, describing each briefly and noting differences in approach from region to region. A selection of recipes follows. It is with these that the book really rises to the heights. How does Carluccio do it? He seems to be able effortlessly to extract from the huge number of available recipes just those that will show up both the beauty of Italian food and its great range. The mushroom dishes are a good example of the deceptive simplicity at work here (fungi are a passion of Caluccio's): Taglierini Pasta with White Truffle; Procini in Oil; Cured Mixed Wild Mushrooms; Baked Kid with Cardoncelli; Judas Ears Sauteed with Garlic and Pasley; Grilled Porcini Caps with Garlic... So it continues, contributing to a wonderfully judicious and informative book. --Robin Davidson
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Antonio Carluccio's recipes are always bang-on, simple and vivid. He is among the most amiable of food writers, genial and measured; one reads with pleasure but no surprise of his delight at encountering Italy's Slow Food Society. In Antonio Carluccio's Italian Feast he explores the traditions of Northern Italian cooking. It must be said that this is of course one of the best known cuisines in the world these days, so the fact that he gives a recipe for as universal a dish as Bolognese Sauce (Ragu Bolognese) bespeaks a serene confidence that one cannot help expecting. The recipes are a combination of traditional dishes, such as the Ragu, with Carluccio's own creations and those of his friends. Coniglio San Domenico (rabbit with artichoke hearts and olives) is his own invention, yet absolutely true to tradition. So it is with Risotto con Lenticchie e Salamini (risotto with lentils and sausages--apparently the original is made with frogs), Zuppa di Cardi e Polpettine di Pollo (Cardoon Soup with Chicken Dumplings) or Crostata di Melecotogne (Quince Tart), to choose more or less at random: the effect is alluring in the extreme, robust and sensual. The illustrations are mouth-watering. For the broadminded, there is a particularly tasty treat on page 147. --Robin Davidson
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"It is often claimed that Marco Polo brought pasta back to Italy from China. Nothing could be further from the truth--in fact, it was already known to the Romans and the Greeks long before Marco Polo and his adventures." Those are the facts according to chef Antonio Carluccio, found in the introduction to Pasta, which forms part of The Carluccio's Collection. In this book you will find a wealth of suggestions to help you create a perfect plate of pasta, just as the Italians like it. Carluccio describes the different sorts of pasta that can be bought and then lists recipes such as "Pasta e Fagioli" (Pasta and Bean Soup),"Orecchiette con Broccoli" (Orecchiette with Broccoli) and "Strangozzi all'Acciuge e Peperone" (Strangozzi with Anchovy and Peppers). Once you have mastered pasta with sauces, he shows you how to try your hand at making your own pasta--plain or stuffed. --Dale Kneen
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Antonio Carluccio's recipes are always bang-on, simple and vivid. He is among the most amiable of food writers, genial and measured; one reads with pleasure but no surprise of his delight at encountering Italy's Slow Food Society. In Antonio Carluccio's Italian Feast he explores the traditions of Northern Italian cooking. It must be said that this is of course one of the best known cuisines in the world these days, so the fact that he gives a recipe for as universal a dish as Bolognese Sauce (Ragu Bolognese) bespeaks a serene confidence that one cannot help expecting. The recipes are a combination of traditional dishes, such as the Ragu, with Carluccio's own creations and those of his friends. Coniglio San Domenico (rabbit with artichoke hearts and olives) is his own invention, yet absolutely true to tradition. So it is with Risotto con Lenticchie e Salamini (risotto with lentils and sausages--apparently the original is made with frogs), Zuppa di Cardi e Polpettine di Pollo (Cardoon Soup with Chicken Dumplings) or Crostata di Melecotogne (Quince Tart), to choose more or less at random: the effect is alluring in the extreme, robust and sensual. The illustrations are mouth-watering. For the broadminded, there is a particularly tasty treat on page 147. --Robin Davidson
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Antonio Carluccio is, of course, an Italian cook, and so the subjects in Antonio Carluccio's Vegetables are approached from a properly Italian point of view. Names, recipes and a respect for their seasonal qualities are all Italian: so too the frugal ability to conjure great depths of flavour from the careful treatment of simple raw materials. Some of the vegetables are very Italian indeed, and you would be lucky to find them outside their native country--the true Radicchio di Treviso, for example, or the strange but delicious, chive-like Barba di Frate--but for most the difficulty will simply lie in matching Carluccio's stipulations of the utmost freshness and quality (organic, if possible).He works his way through the vegetables from Aglio (garlic: where better to start?) to Zucchino (courgette), setting them in the context of Italian life and culture, often with charming reminiscences from his childhood, explaining their characteristics and how to choose them well. The recipes are a mixture of traditional dishes from all over Italy with inventions or contemporary versions of his own. Traditional might mean familiar, like a particularly good version of Pasta and Bean Soup, but there are many old dishes that will be unfamiliar and enticing--the delicious Culurgiones al Sugo, a papoose-shaped pasta stuffed with potato, cheese and mint is a good example. Carluccio's own offerings, appropriately for a modern restaurateur, are often simple and light.
Italian vegetable cooking is perhaps the most creative and resourceful in Europe, as this stylish and inspiring book makes abundantly clear. Photographs that for once illuminate the food and recipes rather than functioning as mood-enhancers, and that includes delightful shots of Carluccio pottering round his vegetable garden, adorn it. --Robin Davidson
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"Antipasto, meaning 'before the meal', plays a very important role in the construction of an Italian meal--that of an appetising and teasing little dish to prepare the palate and stimulate the stomach juices to greater things." Writing in the introduction to Antipasti, Antonio Carluccio notes that the most traditional antipasto consists mainly of preserved foods. Traditionally, in Emilia- Romagna, a few slices of salami, ham or other specially preserved meats, ranging from bresaola to capicollo or coppa, were all home preserved and served accompanied by a few pickled foods prepared throughout summer for a rainy day. In his little book, which is illustrated with photogrpahs by Priscilla Carluccio, you will find recipes for "Fioridi Zucchini Fritti" (Deep-Fried Courgette Flowers), "Melanzane Fritte" (Fried Aubergines) and "Carne all'Abese" (Alba-style Raw Beef with Parmesan and White Truffle). --Dale Kneen
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