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Books : Food & Drink : Food Writers : Valentina Harris
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Valentina Harris describes her pleasure at having the opportunity to devote an entire book to risotto: and it shows. Risotto! Risotto! starts with the words "Making risotto is rather like making love. You must be in tune with and in the mood for what is going on. Be receptive to all the little creaking, popping, crackling noises..." Risotto is an exceptionally sensuous food, subtle, creamy and voluptuous, capable of infinite variety, ranging from ravishing simplicity and purity to fantastic elaboration. Risotto! Risotto! does this wonderful cooking method full justice.Recipes are grouped by ingredient: Cheese and Egg; Vegetables; Mushrooms, Herbs and Truffles; Fish and Seafood; Meat; and (something of a surprise) Fruit, Alcohol and Sweet. The exemplary cheeses are creamy Fontina and pungent Gorgonzola; the risotto with beaten eggs is comfort food of the highest order. Artichokes, cardoons, spinach and walnuts, fennel and even potatoes are among the vegetables. Wild mushroom risotto, two versions of white truffle risotto, rocket, pesto, garlic and nettle recipes follow. Seafood recipes include mackerel (of all things), lobster, scallop, eel and cuttlefish with ink--the last gleamingly black and Art-Deco chic. Lamb, frogs' legs, duck, wild boar and hare are among the meats from which Valentina Harris coaxes risotti. The fruit-based and sweet risotti (strawberries, melon) of the final chapter are of recent origin and quite extraordinary, but recall the probable Arab origins of Italian rice cookery. And champagne risotto? A quite marvellous book. --Robin Davidson
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Valentina Harris describes her pleasure at having the opportunity to devote an entire book to risotto: and it shows. Risotto! Risotto! starts with the words "Making risotto is rather like making love. You must be in tune with and in the mood for what is going on. Be receptive to all the little creaking, popping, crackling noises..." Risotto is an exceptionally sensuous food, subtle, creamy and voluptuous, capable of infinite variety, ranging from ravishing simplicity and purity to fantastic elaboration. Risotto! Risotto! does this wonderful cooking method full justice.Recipes are grouped by ingredient: Cheese and Egg; Vegetables; Mushrooms, Herbs and Truffles; Fish and Seafood; Meat; and (something of a surprise) Fruit, Alcohol and Sweet. The exemplary cheeses are creamy Fontina and pungent Gorgonzola; the risotto with beaten eggs is comfort food of the highest order. Artichokes, cardoons, spinach and walnuts, fennel and even potatoes are among the vegetables. Wild mushroom risotto, two versions of white truffle risotto, rocket, pesto, garlic and nettle recipes follow. Seafood recipes include mackerel (of all things), lobster, scallop, eel and cuttlefish with ink--the last gleamingly black and Art-Deco chic. Lamb, frogs' legs, duck, wild boar and hare are among the meats from which Valentina Harris coaxes risotti. The fruit-based and sweet risotti (strawberries, melon) of the final chapter are of recent origin and quite extraordinary, but recall the probable Arab origins of Italian rice cookery. And champagne risotto? A quite marvellous book. --Robin Davidson
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Valentina Harris' book titles grow ever more excitable. Italia! Italia! is the successor to Risotto! Risotto!, which was shortlisted for the 1999 Andre Simon award. The present book arises from the food and cookery courses Harris has taught in Italy over the past decade; and, indeed, the recipes are interspersed with reminiscences of the days spent working with her students and essays on topics arising from the courses (on truffle hunting, on the terrible hardships of life not so very long ago in the Italian countryside, on choosing the perfect kitchen knife). The recipes themselves are a cross-section of the very best of Italian regional cooking (in the sense, that is, that the best Italian cooking is regional), the regions in question being Piemonte, Toscana, Veneto and Sicilia. It would be fair to say that the majority are likely to be familiar to those interested in Italian food, but that would be to miss the point. Valentina Harris' passion for the cooking of her native country is palpable in Italia! Italia!; combined with sound recipes tested to destruction under classroom conditions, the result is a cookery book quite out of the ordinary. --Robin Davidson
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