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Books : Food & Drink : National & International Cookery : Other Asian
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It's surprising to realise just how thoroughly sushi -- the Japanese art of fish-based cuisine -- has colonised the more sophisticated areas of Great Britain (and some not so sophisticated). What was once considered exotic fare is now something that many of us are addicted to. And the reasons aren't difficult to understand -- apart from the absolutely delicious nature of the food itself, it's the undisputed healthy aspects of sushi that allows us to enjoy the food without feeling in the slightest guilty. A great part of the revolution in food bought about by sushi in this country is undoubtedly due to the remarkable success of the YO! Sushi chain of restaurants, and YO! Sushi: The Japanese Cookbook by Kimiko Barber is both the bible of this new/old cuisine, as well as an inspirational primer for those wishing to try their hand at preparing sushi themselves.Sushi is, of course, not the most straightforward of food to prepare at home (in contrast to the speedy nature with which we are served it in YO! Sushi restaurants), but Barber, in straightforward, well-illustrated instructions gives us the most comprehensible of directions. From slicing fish for sashimi and sushi to making hand rolls (the latter, of course, being one of the key ingredients in sushi cuisine), up to preparing such exotic dishes as Okononiyaki (a savoury Japanese pancake) and the delicious fried dumplings filled with minced vegetables called Gyoza: it's all here, laid out in the most straightforward fashion. There are, of course, those tempting deserts which slide by us on the conveyor belts that are so intrinsic a part of the YO! Sushi restaurants, and there will be quite a few people -- inspired by visits to the restaurants -- who will be checking to see if this still exotic cuisine is within their own culinary range. --Barry Forshaw
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Tetsuya Wakuda is a true artist. Inspired by the ingredients native to his adopted country (Australia), and the techniques and flavours of his birthplace (Japan), Tetsuya combines them to complement and highlight each other in the simplest ways to bring out the most complicated flavours. For those of us unfamiliar with his reputation, Tetsuya comes with a glowing forward by Charlie Trotter that refers to Tetsuya in the same breath as Alain Ducasse, Daniel Boulud and Thomas Keller, and rightly so.Tetsuya's presentation is perfection. Details such as minute brunoise and matchstick julienne are beautiful to behold, but it's his ethereal marinades, and his thoughtful use of Asian influence with ingredients such as fresh ginger and garlic, soy, mirin and wasabi, that make his dishes so memorable, and which allow us mere mortals to follow his recipes successfully. At Tetsuya, meals are presented as numerous small dishes, but you can multiply any of his recipes to work as main courses. "Linguine with a Ragout of Oriental Mushrooms" is simple to prepare, and bursts with the rich, earthy flavour of exotic mushrooms brightened by hints of garlic, sake, mirin, tomato and chile. "Tartare of Tuna with Goat's Cheese" requires sushi-quality tuna, but if you can get it, this dish is quick and easy and luscious with fresh, creamy goat cheese, and lively with cayenne, garlic, ginger, white pepper, and anchovies. Not all of Tetsuya's creations are Asian-influenced. There are many magnificent European-style dishes such as "Salad of Sea Scallops with Asparagus and Beans", "Venison with Roasted Shallots and Morels" and "Granny Smith Apple Sorbet with Sauternes Jelly".
Stunning photographs of dreamy dishes and delightful bits of commentary separate recipes laid out like poetry to make this a culinary page-turner and a gift-worthy coffee-table book. Without a doubt, Tetsuya would make an exciting addition to the kitchen collection of gourmets who love to cook with such ingredients as market-fresh produce, sushi-quality fish and shellfish, fresh venison, squab and guinea fowl. --Leora Y Bloom
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